I set off to ever thicker cloud. The low cloud could be seen to the west advancing towards me, the weather was worsening. I reached the 1400m contour for the first time on the Litlos path. The terrain was becoming increasingly chaotic and barren - a contrast to the eastern hardangervidda. Grass was now very thin and patchy. I reached a watershed and saw the first rain shower approaching. Great, an early camp today? Not so, the shower was brief and while it threatened to rain all the time, I managed to walk for four hours to Litlos before any significant rain arrived. Out west the hills became real interesting little distinctive mountains. They only rose up 100 - 200m above the path but they had wild interesting shapes, steep crags and reminders of home. One mountain around Skadvatn reminded me of the Langdale Pikes. It was grey and the first significant drops from the sky started to arrive as I reached Litlos. I wanted a campsite and wanted one soon, I set off northwards on the path to Harteigen. Having now reached the furthest distance from Geilo, it was time to find a route back. About 1km north of Litlos I found my ideal campsite at lunchtime. I soon got my tent up and soon after the rain started pelting it down. Time to get bored! Friday 30th August
Today was my first sighting of Harteigen - the best mountain in Hardangervidda. It's an inselberg that rises up shear from its surroundings, one gulley gives easy access to it from the east. Because of the weather, I wasn't in the mood to go up to the summit plateau of Harteigen. Snow slopes were more common over here but very dirty. Some had crevasses and the snow patches I crossed were very firm and consolidated. I reached Harteigen and now had a clear view of the plateau north of here. It was the first time I got phone reception since Friday and it was welcoming to see a text message weather forecast from dad. He reckoned that the weather would improve - fingers crossed to that. Heading down north from Harteigen took me swiftly 300m lower past some impressive slopes. Looking back, Harteigen and the slopes looked pretty impressive - a gateway to the rufty tufty part of Hardangervidda. So far I hadn't climbed any summits. I camped early to avoid the thicker vegetation lower down the slope. Saturday 31st August The path northwards often took areas of exposed bedrock slabs which made progress very easy. Although they were damp, the rock was generally quite grippy here. The river Veig was quite substantial and after 3 days of rain and showers it was in full flow. All signs of drought the week before had vanished. My rucksack was now quite tolerable to carry with over a weeks worth of food consumed but I was concerned that there would be no shops once I reached the road. I could carry on to Finse based on what I had and in the end that's what I did. I reached a campsite by a bridge just south of Viveli. I was lucky not to be heavily rained on this afternoon - just a few moderate showers. I just got my tent up in time, as five minutes later another huge deluge hit my tent! Sunday 1st September
The final descent to the road was a pain, more bedrock pavement. I treated each step on the damp rock with suspicion thinking another slip would not be a good idea. The sun was now slowly coming out and the weather picture was improving. The river in this valley was foaming. I was curious about the name Fossli as Foss means waterfall. I reached the road and headed for the Fossli hotel. As I approached the roar emanating from thereabouts got louder and louder and louder. I noticed the valley drops away suddenly ahead but nothing would prepare me for what I would see as I approached the bannister at the edge of some steps. I looked over ....... OH MY GOD! 500 meters below there was a shear drop, the waterfall dropped away 300 meters and was very volumous. The spray at the bottom rushed out with explosive speed and then drifted up the valley slopes forming a drizzle cloud 4000ft above my head. By far and away this was the best waterfall I had seen in my life! After depositing some rubbish in a convenient bin I pushed on beyond the psychological halfway point. I dreamed of the comforts of home - clean sheets, showers, nice food..... I would have to wait. I soon got back up above the tree line on the next part of my walk. I was heading for the valley edge of Simadalen. This valley is anther deep one that drains into a coastal fjord. I wasn't going down into the valley but was going to walk on the plateau rim. On the way there I passed a peak on my left. I wasn't much higher above me but was a decent size in its own right. It surface was entirely made of bedrock slab - if it were covered in grass it would be easy. But the slab gave it an intimidating "Do Not Touch" look about it.
I began my final descent down a muddy path to the valley rim. This was my first decent look at the valley - very impressive. There were meadows I could pitch my tent on just a few metres away from a 500m cliff! I chose not to camp there! I found it unbelievable that there were paths that wound their way up these steep valley slopes! I still had some walking to do, reascending a little to get back to the mountain plateau below the mighty Harangerjokulen icecap. There was a valley up here that was impressive by it's own right - Skytjedalen - it was still rimmed with 200m high cliffs, nothing compared with Simadalen but very nice nonetheless.
Soon I reached camp. The weather appeared to be changing for the worse with some cloud descending once again. |
