Hiking in Rondane
www.mountainhiking.org.uk


Monday 3rd June
I awoke at the leisurely time of 8am again. I really couldn't be bothered with the next group of peaks. Even though there was less snow on them, I needed an easy time - my pack was too heavy! Instead I chose to walk along the well graded paths. I passed the northern cliffs of Rondslottet - 600m high vertical cliffs when a nice covering of snow - Impressive!


The impressive northern cliffs of Rondslottet

The path northwards to Doralseter

I continued northwards to Dordalen. Massive cornices overhung the edge of the rivers around here. I feared that they may collapse at any second, none did. The valley I was in opened out into a massive plain of glacial moraine. It had many pits and hollows in which there nestled numerous tarns. Down in Dordalen, I arrived at Doralseter and was back on track having bypassed the summits around Hogronden.


Styghoin and the gap of Doralsgulpen

Nordresmeden seen from Doralen

I reached a camp above Doralseter in a corrie to the northwest of the mountain huts. Here the mountain shadow helped keep my tent cool early in the evening as I walked around taking photos in the early evening sunshine. I wanted to climb a nearby summit of Smahaugen but still doubtful laziness hung over me.

Tuesday 4th June
It was 4am and it was time to get up. An early start saw me up and off to the summit of Smahaugen - a broad sprawling mountain by all accounts but a very good viewpoint. I left my tent behind to climb light. The wind up top was chilly and quite strong - approaching gale force at times. I took my pictures and returned to my tent feeling fit again.


Styghoin seen closer up

4am sunrise: camping in the corrie beneath Smahaugen


The Hogronden range with its impressive northern corries

Velsesmeden (left) and Storsmeden (right)

Now it was time to continue to follow the trail through a very narrow gap in the mountains - the Doralsgulpen is a narrow ravine with 100m high bare cliffs either side. Little sunlight gets in here as it funnelled the strong southerly winds through.


Snohetta - first view across Dovrefjell
 
 

High up on the broad expanse of Smahaugen
 
 

Rondslottet and Bergedalen
with a great fan
of glacial moraine

Out the northern side, I dropped into a remote forested valley of Haverdalen to cross the river of Haverdalsae. The bridge was damaged, tilted on its side and the river was far too fast to cross by foot. I was left with two options, turn back or risk the bridge. I risked the bridge, not a problem but given the option I would have gone upstream if it wasn't for the thick undergrowth. It was plain to see that some very swift floods had been this way.


Dropping into forrested valley of Haverdalen

The damaged bridge I crossed

The path dropping gradually into Grimsdalen

I climbed out of the forest and on the the grassy slope of a broad low mountain called Gravhoe and I turned the corner to drop into the habited valley of Grimsdalen. I imagined seeing a big metaled road here but saw a dirt track and in the two hours it took to get to the bottom, not one car was seen driving through. I intended to camp near to Grimsdalen at the campsite expecting showers and good company. Instead I got a grassy bank, a coin box that asked for 30kr and a toilet shed!


Looking back to Fallfosshoe whilst
climbng out of Grimsdalen

Deciding that the fee wasn't worth it for a grassy back, I decided to walk on. This was the most northerly point of my walk and it was now time to head south at last. After two more hours of walking I found a superb camping spot above a cliff edge that looked down into uppe Grimsdalen. It was a roasting evening.

Wednesday 5th June
I continued my way southwards. Loads of mosquitos were rising up all round in the thick undergrowth as I made my way to Storvatnet. Here i met a few fishermen - the first people seen since Monday. Southwards the ground got very bleak, I took a path along to Sletthoe. Although I reached heights of 1500m, I was still on grass. There was a log cabin right in the middle of nowhere - no paths, roads, lake or anything! It was windy - touching gale force and cirrus cloud was approaching from the west - I feared it may be rainy quite soon.


Looking into Grimsdalen
from my camp

Storvatnet - where I met the fishermen
 

The rolling hills that I tackled to the
north of the main Rondane group

I left the path to do some off the track cross country walking to set myself up for a load of peak bagging the next day. I climbed up to a plateau ridge coming off the summit of Grahoe - it was very shingly - not many big boulder fields so progress was very swift. That soon changed as I dropped down into the valley of Brakdalen. There was more rough boulder work to be done but there was evidence of flash flooding having occurred here. Thick deposits of mud were lying on the banks of the river here 15 feet above the river level.


The tiny hut set in the middle of nowhere -
made the place feel even more remote

The land was more sterile in this valley with camp sites more hard to find. I found one, but it was a little damp. Much better sleep that night.