North Loch Tay and Glen Lochay
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Introduction
The Ben Lawers range are the most spectacular group of summits with the highest summit in the Southern Highlands nearly reaching 4000ft. This walk is best done as part of a horseshoe round either one of the two corries.


The Tarmachan Ridge seen from the west

Further west just across the glen from the NTS Visitor centre lies the mountain of Meall nan Tarmachan. This is another popular summit - probably due to the high starting altitude of 500m.


Ben Lawers seen from the
slopes of Meall Greigh

Looking down Glen Lochay from
the Meall Ghaordaidh

The Glen Lochay summits are generally a bit more rounded but still composed of broken cliffs and rough glens. The end of Glen Lochay certainly feels very desolate.

The Ben Lawers range
A complete traverse of the Lawers ridge takes in seven munros. Only the south Glen Shiel ridge, the Mamores and the Fannichs offer this many munros for a reasonable days outing. The rounded western summits on the ridge - Meall a' Choire Leith is the usual starting summit. The northern summit takes is a grassy ascent after a boggy approach from the west, a northern approach from Glen Lyon however offers a more scenic start. Once you reach this top, most of the remaining ridge springs into view as it arcs round Allt a' Chobhar. It looks like a long way, and the drops between the summits are more appreciable than other big days out. Despite standing on the top of a munro, Ben Lawers still towers above you.


Ben Lawers seen from the north
ridge of Beinn Ghlas

Meall Garbh and An Stuc seen
from the norrthwest

Beinn Glas and the Lawers range seen
from the Tarmachan ridge

Ben Lawers topographical map

The ridge south from here is wide, grassy and deviod of any significant cliffs. So far the summits are likely to be quite quiet. Dropping down to the watershed of Coire Odhar is quite steep in places and beyond lies the the steep slog upto the shapely summit of Beinn Glas. Here you join the crowds and the path turns into a motorway upto the 1219m high top of Ben Lawers.


Meall a' Choire Leith
- the westernmost summit

Beinn Ghlas seen from Ben Lawers
 

At 1214m, Ben Lawers is the highest top in the southern highlands - hence the crowds. There are no large vertical drops, but its grassy slopes are steep and very long. Seen in the winter, these steep grass slopes turn to fun mountaineering routes. I took one such route into Lawers's north east corrie headwall.

Leave the crowds on the top and head down the long north ridge and up to An Stuc - probably the finest top in the range. The north face of An stuc is very steep and is the crux of the traverse. An eroded path goes down it but it's very steep involving some scrambling in places (and the rock's very polished!). After tackling this face for the 3rd time, I've come to the conclusion that it's worth seeking out alternative routes. The easiest option is to descend An Stuc's west ridge and traverse back under An Stuc's north face to the bealach.


Looking east along Loch Tay
from Meall Greigh

Ben Lawers and An Stuc seen
from Meall Garbh

An Stuc and Meall Garbh seen
from Ben Lawers

Ahead the ridge climbs to Meall Garbh, another shapely mountain. Beyond, the ridge descends to the bealach with Meall Geigh, the final munro on this traverse. This summit is disappointingly rounded, and for many it's a summit that is frequently left off the tick list for another day. The views from it's top are, however, worth the effort. The view of the Lawers range from this top is one of the best, and an uninterrupted view can be had down the eastern end of Loch Tay and the Tay valley beyond.

Most people will descend down to the A827 next to Loch Tay. The path down this route is well established on the lower slopes, however for those seeking solitude, a descent north down into Glen Lyon is recommended. However this route is without a path, and quite tough in the tussock grass. A stalkers path rising south above Invervar can be picked up, but is largely overgrown in its upper section.

The Tarmachan Ridge
The ridge has four summits along its twisty knobbly spine. The eastern most top is the highest at 1043m. The best view of this summit is out to the north east. Here is doesn't look like such a sprawling mass but a nice pyramidad peak. The view out west from the top reveals the remaining tops to do. The 2nd top is the narrowest involveing the simplest of scrambling - but the descent off includes some steep eroded sections. The remaining summits go without event but the western view down Glen Lochay becomes better and better. Out to the south west, the twin tops of stob Binnien and Ben More look inviting.


On the Tarmachan ridge

The narrowest section of the Tarmachan ridge
Meall nan Tarmachan topographical map

The ascent to the summit from the east starts beneath the dam. The ascent to the south ridge is a grassy slog with one electric fence to get over. Once on the south ridge this ascents to the final steepening before the summit. The descent off the western side of the ridge takes you to a track that then skirts round back to the car park. I wouldn't recommend ascent or descent from Killin - 6ft bracken is rather a pain to get through in summer!

Glen Lochay
As said before, these summits are quieter. I had some bad misconceptions from my first ascent of these hills. This was done in dreich conditions with blizzards on top. Driving down Glen Lochay 8 years later, it was a more pleasant place. The road, in places, is in quite a poor condition, particularly around Kenknock farm where pot holes force you to go extra slow. The big bonus is that you can cross over to Glen Lyon from here. A road going over is marked as a track on Landranger maps, but it is tarmaced and the 250m ascent bonus is a very attractive proposition.

Lower Glen Lochay is covered in deciduous woodland and small meadows. Beyond the official road end, the vegetation opens out to uncultivated grass and heather. These mountains at the head of Glen Lochay are quite rugged and demand a 5km walk in from the car park.


Meall Ghaordaidh from the southeast ridge
The first obvious munro seen along the glen from Killin is the rounded summit of Meall Ghaordaidh. The start point for the ascent is obiously marked by a big green sign saying "Meall Ghaordaidh 1040m". The slopes rise up the convex southeastern slopes to 700m, and they are rather toilsome with nothing but the height of surrounding summits to measure progress against. Once you reach 700m, the rocky summit appears ahead of you. Here the ascent becomes more interesting with some rocky outcrops to zigzag around. The view from the top offers fine vistas up the Glens of Lochay and Lyon. Ben Challum is quite distant, and Loch Lyon looks quite fine too. The ascent from Glen Lyon is more interesting. It's quite easy to add the Corbett of Beinn nan Oighreag onto your itinerary for that day. Beinn nan Oighreag features a long north-south ridge.


The Lower end of Glen lochay
 

Meall Ghaordaidh seen from
Meall nan Subh

Looking east to Meall nan Subh
from Beinn Heasgarnich

The top of the road into Glen Lyon is a good starting point for Beinn Heasgarnich. But it is also worth a quick excursion east to the Corbett of Meall nan Subh. Rising 300m from the road, and 1km distant, it is an easy summit to bag. Its plateau is lined with many false summits, and just when you think you've made it, a higher lump lies beyond. It's a good vantage point for Meall Ghaordaidh and upper Glen Lyon. A round trip can be achieved in 2 hours.

Towards the end of the glen lie the two munros of Beinn Heasgarnich and Creag Mhor. Beinnn Challum, Meall Glas, and Sgaith Chuill has been covered on the Crianlarich pages. The end of the glen is the forest of Mamlorm and lies over 7km from the public road end. Two tracks can be followed, one at the bottom of the glen and one 100m up the north slopes. The higher track is recommended for better views and nicer conditions under foot.

Creag Mhor and Beinn Heasgarnich are best traversed together. The saddle between the two summits is quite deep, each summit rising 400m above. Some guide books recommend a direct ascent of Creag Mhor from the saddle, however this is very steep. My route is to ascend via its northern corrie to reach the northwest ridge and then backtrack to the summit. A western approach to Creag Mhor can also be made from Strathfillan through the saddle north of Ben Challum. This makes for a good linear walk.


Beinn Heasgarnich seen from
Creag Mhor

Beinn Heasgarnich seen from its
north east ridge

Ben Challum and Creag Mhor from Beinn Heasgarnich

Beinn Heasgarnich has sprawling lower slopes and has a plateau like ridge on top. I've been up here in white out conditions and yes, it's good practice for your navigation skills! From the east, 5km of heather and undulating peat bog needs to be traversed to reach its north east ridge. The final ascent of which is easy, but weaves around the many broken crags. Once on the ridge, Beinn Heasgarnich is 1km distant on a broad knobbly ridge. The western ridge rises up steeply from the saddle with Creag Mhor. This isn't a scramble, but when seen on the southern approach to the saddle, the west ridge looks rather imposing.