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Introduction
The middle section of the Cuillin is the longest, and for those doing a complete ridge traverse it's the most tiresome section. Large sections of the ridge call for sustained scrambling - occasionally very exposed. There are some rock climbing pitches mixed in with them as well with the bit between Sgurr a' Mhadaidh and Bidein Druim nan Ramh being a key section. Despite the length, it's delightfully twisty and throws up many pleasant surprises. Escape routes can be quite a distance away so there is an element of seriousness to this traverse.
Sgurr na Banachdich
This is one of the genuinely easy munros on the ridge. An approach from the west via Coire an Eich is essentially a walk across a broad plateau. It's nice in descent with Coire an Eich having relatively high altitude grass at 450m. It's a nice relief after sustained adventure on the ridge!
The western plateau of Banachdich
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The South ridge
of Banachdich |
Sgurr na Banachdich seen from Glen Brittle
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From In Pinn and Sgor Dearg to the south, you descend easily to the Bealach Coire na Banachdich before taking on Banachdich's south ridge. Now this ridge demands attention, the guidebook reckons it's a grade 2 scramble but I feel it's much harder than that if you stick to the crest over the hardest top. The first top is barely worth a mention, the 2nd top is also very straightforward and very nice. The third top however is very commiting and exposed with near vertical cliffs supporting a slabby, knife edge ridge that sometimes is without holds. There are some easy ledges at the bottom of the west facing cliffs and it is these that merit grade 2 scrambling.
Sgor Dearg seen from Banachdich |
Sgurr na Banachdich seen from Ghreadaidh |
Continuing north leads to some seriously fun scrambling. You drop down scree slopes to the first minor top - Sgurr Thormaid. Here some easy scrambling gets you over this and then its essentially a walk down to the next obstacle - the "Three Teeth" sounds scary? Actually they're easy to get round. The first is a proper optional scramble but the other two are simple. After that it's easy down to the first proper bealach.
The SE ridge
of Banachdich |
Looking towards the difficult bit
of the SE Banachdich Ridge |
The easy bit on the SE ridge
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Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh & Mhadaidh
There's no way down off the bealach here - rock climbing. Either return the way you came or fasten your seatbelt! The fun starts here. The south ridge to Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh is a grade 3 and seriously exposed between the south and main tops. The ascent to the south top is easy at first but gets progressively narrower. Once on the south top it's already very narrow I hear you think. But the best stuff is right in front of you. The holds are good and you get some 'picnic platforms' on the ridge for a breather but one slip either side and it's game over!
The striking profile
of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh |
Descent south
off Ghreadaidh |
The narrow ridge between the
south and north tops |
Most of the guidebooks talk of this being the narrowest crest in the Cuillin and I'd have to agree. It's fairly short between the tops however and once on the main top, you can relax! The descent is largely easy passing beneath a buttress on a shelf and further along there's a deep narrow cleft - Eag Dubh. There's some slab walking and it's only near An Dorus gap that the scrambling happens. An Dorus is a 20ft deep square slot you have to descend into. It's a steep grade 3 scramble and is the most difficult part of the descent.
Sgurr Thuilim seen from
Sgurr na Banachdich |
Ghreadaidh and Sgurr Thormaid (below)
seen from Sgurr na Banachdich |
From An Dorus, a scree slope provides an easy escape to Glen Brittle. The scramble continues from here easily to Sgurr a' Mhadaidh but beyond that top it narrows considerably. This is the limit of what I've done on this part of the ridge. Reading further information, the ridge from Sgurr Thuilim west of Mhadaidh provides a fine exposed route up to the summit - grade 2/3.
The Eag Dubh
Cleft |
Looking northwest from
Sgurr a' Mhadaidh |
Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh seen
from Sgurr a' Mhadaidh |
Bidein Druim nan Ramh
The section between Sgurr a' Mhadaidh and Bidein Druim nan Ramh is a key section. Numerous pitches of mod and diff standard are required and ways around them require very tricky and exposed route finding. I can't comment further here.
Cross Country Routes
The Coire na Banachdich route was mentioned on the previous page. There is one other easy pass just south of Bidein Druim nan Ramh into Coruisk - the Bealach na Glaic Moire.
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