Looking up Loch Vaich

Looking west from Black Bridge at the start of the walk

My intention for this trip was to climb all the munros north of the Inverness - Ullapool Road. This didn't happen. In the end only Am Foachagach was climbed. My spirits sunk after the weather forecasts changed the outlook from settled weather to drizzle drizzle drizzle. I went out none the less hoping the weather would be different.

Today was heavy blustery wintery showers. The coach driving up through the Drumochter pass was constantly being hit by shower after shower. A bright spell settled over Inverness and it seemed that the Cairngorms were simply the odd ones out. After a late breakfast at Safeway, I caught a bus to Maryburgh - every 1/2 hour and the stop before Dingwall. From here I hitched on the Ullapool road and soon a lift came along. I was walking just after 1pm.

The Slopes of Am Foachagach
seen on the first day

A shower had just finished as I was dropped off and it seemed that I was promised a good ¼ hour of dry weather. I proceeded to walk up Strath Vaich. The first 6 - 7km was on a hard track. I was walking into a strong north westerly and the walk smelled bad with all the sheep dung. I left the track at Loch Vaich and it was now squishy and rough ground along a wet path to the burn of Allt Glas Toll Mor.

I was more dehydrated than usual. My Platypus "drink on the go" bottle had leaked so I was left with a conventional lemonade bottle meaning I had to stop and take the rucksac off every so often. This was something I wasn't fond of as I would get cold.

Once on the moor, the going was less wet but exhausting in the strong westerly wind. Progress was slower than usual and not made easier by the now frequent blizzards and drifted over peat hags. I was hoping to climb the summit today but it looked increasingly unlikely.

In the end I camped high up close to the head waters of the Allt Glas Toll Mor. The end of the burn looked buried in snow so I camped on a side burn on the only flat ground that existed amidst the steep slopes. It was drifted over but it would do.

That evening was freezing in the sub zero temperatures and gale force wind. I slept well deep inside my sleeping bag.

It was drizzle today. It was showery in the morning but lasted all afternoon. The fresh snow had practically gone - except what was underneath my tent which was now causing considerable ground condensation in the humid conditions. I decided to lie in - I wanted good photo conditions. I went out to climb the summit in the mid afternoon to break the boredom. The going was easy over grass and some rock. After being out for only one hour I was soaked through!

The forecast was for more drizzle into the weekend. I'd listen to the forecast in the morning to see if there was any improvement.

The Slopes of Am Foachagach
seen on the last day

There was no forecast improvement so I packed the tent at the leisurely hour of 9am. Despite the milder weather, it was still freezing packing away. At last I was off back down the slopes. The weather was cloudy but there were still bright patches. The weather was certainly better than yesterday but not encouraging enough for photos. It was pretty tedious walking back the way I came - chiefly due to the utter bleakness and blandness of the walk - no dramatic peaks here.

I got a prompt hitch all the way back to Inverness - seems that hitchhiking's a lot easier up here. The coach to manchester was full so I stayed at the Bazpackers hostel (£8.50 per night) it was basic but adequate with a reasonable video library. I took the opportunity to investigate postbusses as these could prove to be a saviour for anything north of Ullapool.

The next day was pretty poor. I felt relieved to be going home but an all day coach felt very tedious after being to the highlands so much. I much prefer theovernight coaches - the journey just flies by then.

I'll get the summits next time I'm here.