March 2000:- The Far North
www.mountainhiking.org.uk


Sunday 26th March
4.5km 300m ascent
Sun - for the first time in ages!


Quinag seen from Inchnadamph hotel
 

Convival seen on the approach to
the camp site along Gleann Dubh

The decision to do the trip was taken three days before the departure date. A high pressure system was forecast to establish itself over the region and so I decided to get out and enjoy the sunshine while it lasted.

There was a wee bit of confusion with the overnight coach and the summer/winter time change over but in the end, I was out walking at 3pm after two separate lifts got me from Maryburgh to Inchnadamph Hotel in Assynt. This was the furthest north that I had ever been in Scotland and the scenery north of Ullapool was like nothing else in the rest of Scotland - wild evocative shapes rose out of the moorland.


The cliffs south of Inchnadamph

Canisp seen from Inchnadamph

The track leading up to the bottom of Convival was well worn - something I didn't expect with these summits in the far north. It soon became obvious that these were also popular hills. I saw at least four groups as I made my way to camp.


The Western Cliffs of Brebag

Convival seen from my camp site


Looking the other way - to Canisp

The micro-scenery was remeniscent of the Yorkshire dales with limestone steps on the grassy slopes and streams plunging into caves. I finally reached my camp spot beneath the steep rise to Conival. The slope was steep - steep enough to have to struggle in a sleeping bag to stop sliding down. I consequently lost sleep over night. The forecast on the radio was for more dry weather - dam! I forgot my sunglasses! The setting at the camp site was superb with Canisp and the Inverpolly summits in view.

Monday 27th March
Convival (241)
Ben More Assynt (242)
12.5km 950m ascent
A dusting of snow


Looking south from Convival
to the empty upper reaches of
the River Oykel

I awoke at 7am to patchy cloud. There was a frost and washing up was cold in the light wind that prevailed. I packed away unnecessary items into bags ready for collection later on. The ascent up the stream to the high bealach was quite muddy but was semi frozen so it wasn't that bad. I realised that there were much better camping spots up here - far better than where I was.


The view across to the
Inverpolly summits

Beinn an Fhurain - seen on the
bealach linking it with Convival

Approaching Convival on
the north ridge

Higher up, the going was more stony and somewhat similar to walking on Bletoppen in Norway with the white rock. The snow was frozen and the wind was chilly. The cloud was now only letting through small patches of sunlight - not what I was hoping for really. The wind was from the north east and the view north was even more cloudy.


Ben More Assynt seen from the
north ridge of Convival

Brebag seen from Convival
 

Beinn an Fhurain - seen on the ridge
linking Convival with Ben More Assynt

The short range views were still very good expecially when sunlight hit the mountains to highlight the features. Brebag looked nice from this angle with some hidden corries seen that probably wouldn't be obvious to anyone climbing that mountain from the road. The connecting ridge linking Convival with Ben More Assynt looked very narrow from the north but turned out not to be so.


South top of Ben More Assynt with Dubh
Loch Mor mestled at the bottom

Convival and its south ridge seen
from Ben More Assynt

I reached the summit of Ben More Assynt and it was now time to return to the rest of my stuff. I met another person doing the ridge - strange to see someone else outside weekends. It was now getting very warm in the hazy sunshine. I packed up and walked back down to the road.


South top of Ben More Assynt seen
from Ben more Assynt

Loch Assynt seen
from Convival

Now for the trying part! I had to hitchhike out to Durness and then to Ben Hope. That was harder than I thought. Getting to the road junction at Loch Assynt was easy enough with the Lochinver traffic but beyond that, the traffic thinned out and folk weren't so kind. The travel up to Durness went past even more stunning scenery but the waiting spoiled the enjoyment.


Ben Stack seen
from Scourie

Sango bay, Durness
 

Beinn Ceannabeinne
seen from Durness

I eventually reached Durness but it was too late to try to get to Ben Hope today. I camped at the Durness camp site which was closed so I didn't have to pay anything.