A' Chailleach seen from Sgurr Breac
in early morning snow

I awoke at 2am to find clear skies and no cloud. Was the weather forecast wrong? No! At 4am the high cloud edge crept in from the east. That was my wake up call. The forecast in the morning was grim and by 6.30am I was walking. The first summit was reached quickly. Up until now the cloud was high up and I could still see blue sky over the Isle of Skye. But now lower cloud was beginning to cover the eastern tops. The eastern prospect looked pretty grim.

The gloom settling in over Sgurr Mor

Torridon still on weak sunshine

There was overnight snow up here and the ridge I was on was clear of cloud. When I started the ascent of the second summit, the low cloud overtook me and I now found myself enveloped in mist. Once I reached the summit, I made my way down soggy, grassy slopes to a building near Loch a' Bhraoin. The cold chill on the top was replaced by a warmish breeze at the bottom. The day was still dry.

I now picked up an excellent stalkers track that took me to the secluded Loch an Nid where I would leave the path to start my traverse of the Fisherfield munros. The rain started as I left the path but it was showery into the evening (though each shower got heavier) there was no sunshine in between. The ascent to Am Briseadh took me along broken slabs which eased the going. The bealach was very rocky and quite awkward. It was here that I left my sack to climb the northern most summit.

The approach to the Fisherfield from
the east with Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair
in view

The place was busy with bank holiday makers but not nearly as busy as the Lakes would be. The ridge to the summit was broad with periodic rocky fields yet the ascent to next summit south was along a messy boulder ridge - a nightmare imported from Norway! The showers stopped as I got down to Loch a' Bhrisidh where I camped for the night. Tomorrow's forecast sounded better - they were wrong!

The narrow ridge of Beinn Tarsuinn

The rain at 5am sounded like poo! It stopped for breakfast but continued just as I was to wash up. I decided to enjoy the warmth of my sleeping bag until the rain stopped. It wasn't until 9am that I started walking. I avoided the boulder strewn ridge I saw yesterday and climbed directly to the summit on steep though easy grassy slopes.

The summit itself was a flat plateau composed of easy stones. The descent to the next and highest Fisherfield forest was easy going on the stone. The reascent was very steep on the scree slope but a path did zigzag up the rocks easily. This summit was hard going on the top. The ground was bouldery with rocks trying to twist your ankle one way then the other. This hard going continued halfway down the south ridge where easy grass and rock steps pravailed.

Now for the next summit Beinn Tarsuinn. I though I'd have to go over Meall Garbh but no. A path cut across the slope of Meall Garbh to easily get me to the ascent of Beinn Tarsuinn - a tedious plod up broad grass slopes. This slope hid the spectacular ridge to be revealed on the other side. The western ridge is mostly an easy unexposed walk but a few rock steps and narrow sections had to be traversed. There was no difficulty. Now only two more summits remained today.

The eastern Fisherfield munros seen from Beinn Tarsuinn

On the west ridge of Beinn Tarsuinn

I descended down to the bealach before A' Mhaighdean. It remained dry since the firs summit today - until now. The rain came in heavy and didn't stop until two hours later. The ascent up to A' Mhaighdean was gentle and grassy but slow with the wet painful bleeding feet I had it was slow.

The summit was covered in new wet snow which made the steep grassy slopes going down to the next bealach quite treacherous. I slipped once but with no consequence. The rain started at long last to moderate as I reached the bealach to the final summit. The ascent from here to the next top was only 150m but tackled very steep (and rough) scree breaking through some crags. I decided to take the stalkers track north to begin my traverse round to the back of the mountain to Lochan a' Bhraghad where I could tackle easy slopes up to the rocky crest.

I camped at the lochan to give some attention to my feet in agony. The day was finally brightening up with the summer isles near Ullapool in view. Tomorrow would herald the return of sunshine since Friday.

Toll an Lochain and the Corrac Bhuidie
Pinnacles briefly in view

It was to be a day of sunshine and vicious heavy hailstorms. The day started off reasonable with high cloud clearing away to the east but lots of medium cumulus cloud moving on a stiff westerly wind. The forecast was for the showers to become heavy during the afternoon and so I started walking early. My plan for the day was to climb the summits of An Teallach.

Beinn Tarsuinn seen from the north

Beinn Dearg Mhor seen from near Shevanal Bothy

The path down to the river crossing near Shevanal bothy was excellent until it got closer to the river crossing where it became increasingly muddy. The two river crossings were both easy but lead to wet feet (again!)

Shevanal and the paths leading to and from it were all very busy. There was no feeling of being all alone here like I've had in other places. This was a disappointing feature of the "last great wilderness". The path to the road from the bothy was very muddy. It was poor - no way near as nice as the paths going through the Fisherfield forest. I branched off to traverse into Toll an Lochain. By now the showers were heavy and dumping quite large hailstones. I decided to traverse round into the corrie north of the grand one to get to an easy approach route up.

Upon arriving into the corrie I set up my tent with the intention of having lunch and leaving it pitched while I traversed the ridge. I got cold during lunch. I felt the warmth of my sleeping bag to be more inviting than the cold damp chill outside and besides, An Teallach was wreathed in mist. Not a good day for traversing one of the more spectacular summits.

Beinn a' Chlaidheimh seen from near Shevanal Bothy

Morning sun creeping under the clouds

The Dundonell valley

I never climbed An Teallach and so decided next morning to go home. The forecast for the remaining week didn't inspire me to go out walking more. Ah well, at least I got to Scotland and relieved my withdrawal symptons! Better luck with the weather next time