Wednesday 23rd May
Inacessable Pinnacle (278)
Then Wednesday, another hot day. We started early and climbed up to Sgor Dearg from Glen Brittle House via Sgor Dearg's west ridge. The ascent was a slog for most of the way but the final section of the ridge turned narrow and scrambly. We had an early start which meant some better contrasts looking north to Sgurr a Greadaidh.
We reached Sgor Dearg, left the sacks and then descended to the base of In Pinn on its east ridge. In a group of five, we roped up onto two 50m ropes. The leader, Graham Seed was effectively climbing solo with only three slings to place as protection on the ridge - not what I'm used too where leader places protection and second does the belaying. The rope between leader and second became taught and up climbed the second. I was third, my harness being the link between the two ropes, everyone else used climbing tape for makeshift harnesses.
Finally the rope pulled on my harness, yahoooooo! I was finally climbing up! It was a long climb, not in distance but in time - coordinating the movements of five people was slow work. There was an initial steep climb up followed by the slightly less steep but very exposed ridge itself. The guidebook descriptions of infinite overhangs on each side were untrue. To the left were slabs only 200ft below and to the right were steeper slabs beneath a slight overhang.
The confidence gained during the previous days scrambling meant that I could keep my cool which was just as well for if I fell on that 1 foot wide ridge, I would execute quite a large pendulum path before coming to rest on an HVS rock climb. At one point there was a slight buldge of basalt on the ridge that I couldn't get a grip on, little handholds either there. The only awkward bit but soon overcome. I flicked the rope on to the left and right hand side of the ridge to help protect any fall using snags on the ridge. Finally the end was in sight, seeing the leader belaying me was reassuring but the moves were easy. Finally I reached the broad platform before finally touching the top. Time to belay the fourth and fifth persons before the leader set up the abseil. I was the first off, leaning over that edge felt exhilarating. Wow! I did it! Woohoo!
How can I describe the feeling? I guess the whole event felt like doing and passing my driving test. The test itself on the ridge, passing the test when reaching the top, and that exhilarating feeling of solo driving when on the abseil! I waited for everyone else to abseil off savouring the views east to Sgurr Alastair and Mhic Choinnich and northwards. We then made a leisurely stroll back down the way we came. What a day. From now on, it feels like plain sailing to the final munro!
Thursday 24th May
Sgurr na Gillean (279)  Great morning today, Sgurr na Gillean Another scorcher today. The night before I had vertigo related nightmares about the final section of Gillean. I already turned back twice on it and feared I might again. I was doing this one solo, the rest of the team were out on Raasay for an ascent of Dun-caan. I set off early at 8.00am doing the same old slog along the path to the bottom of Gillean putting music in my head to avoid dwelling on it. Up the same route to the south east ridge, now in sight and looking menacing. I reached the SE ridge, stopping only to stash the trekking pole away. Onwards and upwards, it was 10.00am. I reached the chimney I turned back on first time round, a simple bridging maneuver. I veered right sticking close to the crest and taking easy routes past small buttresses. A hard right to regain the crest again and I soon reached the point where I turned back the second time round, a small cleft on the crest. I was hungry and thirsty but the scrambling so far kept me busy from those feelings.
Ahead loomed the most awkward bit - a slabby step, a slip there meant a big tumble. A didn't think about that though, just got on with ascending it. The footholds here sloped outward and there were no handholds so it was a matter of balance work. I soon got above it and the crest was so much more defined but easy - a broad slab tilting to the left and rising up in small steps - easy! Soon the crest levelled off an I saw the summit - a stones throw away. The guide books talked of it being extremely narrow from here onwards but nothing of the sort. An easy scramble was all that was needed. I had visions of a horizontal ridge as narrow as In-Pinn that you straddle with one leg on each side of the crest, nope - little more than a stroll.
I made it! 10.20am. Wondering now why I turned back before! Took a few photos and then returned. The guidebooks talked of 'sloping blocks on the Lota corrie side avoiding the ridge' I saw none - but it looked very steep down there. Now the awkward bit, a delicate balance was needed on sloping rock on a very narrow crest, no handholds. Hmmm! I didn't like that sensation. Soon the scrambling was over and the trekking pole was back out again for the long slog back to Sligachan. An excellent finale to the trip, back at lunchtime, my cheese sandwiches had melted! Well, just 5 munros left and now I can actually see the light at the end of the tunnel! Until next time, safe ventures. |
